Rotation Plan

The idea of a rotation plan is to two-fold:

1. Different pests and diseases affect different families of plants, so moving the plant families around prevents pests and diseases building up in the soil.

2. The different plant familes need different nutrients. By moving the plants from one patch of ground to another, you are giving the earth a chance to recover.

Rotating crops is highly recommneded to maintain the health and yield of your plants. You must also help replace nutrients by digging in plenty of organic matter (well rotted manure is the favourite of many allotment holders) to most of the allotment each year, and of course supply extra nutirients to your plants when they need it (e.g., feeding tomotoes when the fruit starts forming).

The following table is for a basic 4-year rotation plan. The ground should be divided into 4 equal areas, and the different crops grown in a different quarter each year.

There are many variations of this plan, so you should adapt it to suit your needs, and the crops you want to grow (see notes below) while retaining the basic idea of rotating your crops.

Year 1	Year 2	Year 3	Year 4
A - Potatoes & tomatoes	A - Onions, leeks, carrots & parsnips	A - Brassicas (cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli & swedes)	A - Beans (French, runner & broad), peas
B - Onions, leeks, carrots & parsnips	B - Brassicas (cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli & swedes)	B - Beans (French, runner & broad), peas	B - Potatoes & tomatoes
C - Brassicas (cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli & swedes)	C - Beans (French, runner & broad), peas	C - Potatoes & tomatoes	C - Onions, leeks, carrots & parsnips
D - Beans (French, runner & broad), peas	D - Potatoes & tomatoes	D - Onions, leeks, carrots & parsnips	D - Brassicas (cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli & swedes)

In Year 5, you would go back to the Year 1 rotation, so (on this allotment) the ground at the top of the plot will have had a 3 year rest between potato crops. Some crops can be planted pretty much anywhere, so can be used to fill any gaps that you might have. Lettuces, beetroot, courgette, squash and cucumber all fall into this category. As well as the basic four areas for the four main divisions of plants, you might want to consider leaving space for (semi-) permanent plants, such as fruit bushes, globe artichokes, or even an asparagus bed. Many people also like to include herbs (or even flowers for cutting) on their allotment - whether you have a herb/flower bed, or choose to plant herbs and flowers amongst other plants is another choice you have to make. A good idea is to make a list of things you want to grow and work out which area they belong in, and then draw the plan for your allotment (including space for any fruit/herbs/flowers, etc). Then transfer your plan onto the ground with some strong twine and pegs. Have a look at other, established, allotments for ideas, too.

Other Pages

Gardening Calendar
Useful Links


These pages are still being developed ... watch this space!
Back to home page		Last updated 26 March 2007.

Barton Fields Allotments
	Rotation Plan
The idea of a rotation plan is to two-fold: 1. Different pests and diseases affect different families of plants, so moving the plant families around prevents pests and diseases building up in the soil. 2. The different plant familes need different nutrients. By moving the plants from one patch of ground to another, you are giving the earth a chance to recover. Rotating crops is highly recommneded to maintain the health and yield of your plants. You must also help replace nutrients by digging in plenty of organic matter (well rotted manure is the favourite of many allotment holders) to most of the allotment each year, and of course supply extra nutirients to your plants when they need it (e.g., feeding tomotoes when the fruit starts forming). The following table is for a basic 4-year rotation plan. The ground should be divided into 4 equal areas, and the different crops grown in a different quarter each year. There are many variations of this plan, so you should adapt it to suit your needs, and the crops you want to grow (see notes below) while retaining the basic idea of rotating your crops.